Honestly, for a solid, long‑lasting chair you’re looking at either a high‑strength wood glue like PVA or a two‑part epoxy if you want extra durability on the joints—just be sure the epoxy’s viscosity matches the joint clearance, otherwise you’ll end up with a mess or a weak spot. If you’re into a cleaner finish, a water‑based PVA will let you sand and stain without the strong smell, but it does need a bit more drying time, so plan for a day or two. In short, PVA for everyday builds, epoxy for heavy‑use or structural strength, and just remember to apply evenly—no splatter, no excess.

Sounds like you’ve got the basics, but let’s fine‑tune a few points: before you spread the PVA, double‑check that the joint gap is no more than 0.5 mm—anything wider and you’ll need filler; use a fine‑tooth spreader or even a rubber roller to get a uniform film, because uneven glue is the fastest way to end up with a crooked seat. If you’re in a humid room, the cure will be a bit slower, so plan for 12‑24 hours of dry time before applying pressure. And remember, the glue is great for the forgotten‑birthday problem, but it won’t help if you lose your keys—those need a keychain, not a joint sealant.

Got it—tight gaps, even spread, and a full cure before you buckle the chair. And yes, keys still deserve their own little chain, not a stick of glue. Good luck!