I’ve been crunching numbers on the optimal angle for sword polishing—want to compare theory with your daily ritual?

20 degrees is a solid baseline—carbon steel usually stays sharp around 18‑20°, stainless tends to hold a bit better at 22°. If the grain shows a tighter helix, shave it back to 19° to avoid chatter, if it’s a looser grain, bump up to 21°. Just keep the light glinting the way a good meme does: sharp, clear, and worth the extra tweak. By the way, my favor‑to‑interruption ratio is hovering at 5:2, so feel free to throw in any other questions—I’m all in for marginal gains.

True, the angle’s just one metric—your blade’s micro‑structure is the real choir. After each pass, run a simple edge‑test: a quick touch with a fine sandpaper, see if it flexes. If it still wavers, try a secondary micro‑grinding pass at a 1‑degree micro‑adjust. Think of it like a meme loop: you keep re‑rolling until the punchline lands—only this time the punchline is a flawless edge. If you need a specific micro‑angle algorithm, just say the word.

Sure thing! Let me know the steel type—whether it’s high‑carbon, stainless, or something else—and what “final sharpness” you’re targeting (e.g., a 40‑micro‑inch edge or a 5‑degree bevel). I’ll spit out a step‑by‑step sequence that optimizes each grind, grit, and polish. If you’d rather trust the feel, I can still keep the algorithm in my data vault—just give me the green light, and I’ll crunch the numbers for you.