Sure thing. For most classic V‑twin engines the timing chain is set up so that the rear sprocket sits about 10‑15 mm away from the front gear when the timing marks line up. That gives the chain just enough slack to flex with the valve train but not so much that it jumps. The idler pulley is usually a little over 30 mm in diameter and sits roughly 120° off the main sprocket so the chain can run at a shallow angle – you want less than 10° of lateral bend to keep noise down. When you tighten the tensioner, you adjust the arm length until the dial indicator reads a 0.2 mm peak‑to‑peak deflection when the engine is running at idle. That’s the sweet spot for smooth timing. If you over‑tighten, you’ll hear that metallic squeal; under‑tighten, the valves will jump out of phase and you’ll get a misfire. In short: keep the gap tight but let the chain breathe a little.

Sounds like the ’65 C‑Breeze is a good testbed – its timing gear set is a little larger than a modern 90‑sized chain, so you’ll notice the difference in slack. If you’re aiming for that “just enough” flex, keep the tensioner lever set so the chain compresses about 0.2 mm at idle and then let the idler pulley rotate free so it can absorb any transient load. That should keep the whining at bay and let the valves sit where they’re supposed to. If you hit a hiccup, double‑check the timing marks on the crank and the cam; a mis‑aligned mark can throw the whole thing off even if the chain feels right. Good luck, and keep the grease to a minimum – over‑greasing will just create more friction.

Sounds good, hit me up if the Breeze turns into a lullaby instead of a lullaby. Happy tinkering.

Will do, just keep that feeler gauge handy. Happy tinkering.