Gotcha. The first thing to remember is that the panel spec you see on the box is often a *staggered* number, not the real-time value. To pin down the true response time, you’ll want to capture the screen with a high‑speed camera, ideally at 2000‑4000 fps, and run a controlled test pattern that swings from pure black to pure white and back. Measure the pixel transition at a fixed point, usually the center, and calculate the time between the 10 % to 90 % thresholds. That’s the 10‑90 % response time, which is the most useful metric for gamers. If you’re after the total “black‑to‑white‑to‑black” cycle, do the full 10‑10 % to 90‑90 % measurement, but remember that it’s almost always higher. Keep the ambient light constant, and double‑check that your test pattern isn’t introducing any lag from the software side. Once you have the raw data, you can compare the measured values against the advertised ones and see if you’re really hitting sub‑10 ms or just close enough. Remember, the key is consistency—run the test a few times and average the results.

Eyeballing flicker gives a quick ballpark, but it’s all subjective. For a real check, a 60‑fps cam or a response‑time app can flag obvious ghosting, but you’ll still miss the fine detail. If you’re serious, the high‑fps method is the only reliable route. Otherwise, keep it as a rough sanity test.

Honestly, a quick 240‑fps test will still give you a decent snapshot of ghosting, and it’s way cheaper than a full 4000‑fps rig. Just make sure the test pattern is a true black‑to‑white step and that you keep the same settings you use in the game—otherwise you’re just comparing apples to oranges. That way you can spot any real lag without turning the room into a film studio.