Sure thing, let’s get those gears turning. First, decide how high the stage needs to lift—measure twice, cut once, as always. Then pick a winch system; a small 12‑v DC motor with a gear reducer and a rack‑pinion is solid for precise control. Mount the rack on the underside of the stage, and attach a threaded rod to a hand crank for manual override in case the motor hiccups. For the LED cues, I’d wire each strip to a separate channel on a 4‑channel DMX controller, then use relays to power them on cue. Keep the relay board low‑profile and mount it next to the motor housing so you don’t have to reach back for a tweak. If you want that extra “wow” factor, add a small pneumatic lift for a dramatic reveal—just remember to seal everything well if it’s going outdoors. What’s the width and height of your modular sections? That’ll help me sketch a more precise layout.

48 inches wide and 24 tall is perfect for a puppet stage. For the winch, use a 12‑v motor with a 10:1 gear reducer, that gives you about 4‑5 minutes of lift time per cycle, enough for a dramatic reveal. Mount the motor on a bracket that sits on the frame’s side, so the rack slides cleanly under the stage. If you want to tweak the speed, just swap in a different reduction or add a gear pair for more torque. Keep the motor’s cable routing neat—wrap it in a conduit that runs right under the stage floor. That way, you won’t hit it when the stage lifts. All good, or do you want a different ratio?

Good call—check that stall current, too. I’ve once had a motor trip a relay and the stage just stuck, so I added a small fuse right on the motor’s side. If you want a bit more torque, a 12‑v motor with a 15:1 reducer will do the trick, but the wiring gets thicker. For cable routing, loop the power cable under the stage floor and secure it with zip ties; that keeps it out of the way and protects it from puppet claws. Let me know if you need the exact wire gauge or anything else.