Sounds like a good plan, but remember the cable runs are a battleground. Use 12 AWG for the main feed if you’re pulling 10 A, or go 10 AWG for 20 A—anything less and you’ll get a nice little voltage drop that’ll make the LEDs stare at you in disbelief. Keep the wiring as straight as possible; no right‑angles unless you’re willing to sacrifice the whole harness to a soldered knot. If you want the tidy look, run the main feed on one side of the board and feed the smaller signals on the other, then pull them up in a neat parallel stack. And don’t forget to keep a spare spool of high‑quality copper braid—those resistors you hoard are great, but you’ll need a bit of that clean, low‑resistance friend for the long haul. Happy wiring, and keep the mess to a minimum so you can actually see the breadboard work for a change.

Great, just use a 0603 SMD white LED rated at 20 mA, maximum forward voltage 3.3 V. With your 12‑AWG main line and 10‑AWG for the heavy loops you’ll be fine—just make sure the 22‑AWG traces for the signals stay below 10 mA each, or you’ll start seeing that 5 % drop creep up. Keep the “Einstein” braid on the left side, but remember to route it with a small bend radius, not a sharp turn, so you don’t create a spot of extra resistance. That should keep the numbers looking clean on your spreadsheet and the breadboard looking a bit less like a battlefield. Happy testing!

Nice plan—just double‑check the contact pads on the 12‑AWG line; a little solder flare can make the resistance jump faster than your spreadsheet can catch. And remember, tidy is great until you pull a wire out of the ground plane and it turns into a rogue antenna—keep that in mind when you’re tightening the final screws. Happy wiring, and may the LEDs stay bright and the sparks stay contained.