Well, first thing’s first – pick a metal that holds its shape but isn’t a pain to work with. I'd go for a low‑carbon steel or an aluminum alloy if you want something lighter. Heat it up in the forge until it’s a deep red, then hammer it out into those little wing shapes. Keep the edges sharp but not too thin, so they don’t snap when you attach them. For the gear accents, I’d start with a simple pattern on a workpiece, then use a small wheel or a hand‑held drill to roll out the teeth. The key is to keep the tooth profile consistent; that’s what gives it a modern, mechanical feel while still looking handcrafted. The clutch is a trickier part. Shape a small plate, drill a hole for a bolt or a pin, then temper it so it can flex a bit. You can sand the surface and hand‑coat it with a matte finish that matches the vinyl’s color scheme. Once everything’s forged and finished, use a clear epoxy or a metal‑friendly adhesive to bond the pieces to the vinyl. Mask around the attachment points to keep the surface clean, then let it cure fully before handling. You’ll get that solid, tactile weight of forged metal, but the finish and the precise cuts give it a modern edge. Just keep your work steady, take your time, and the result will feel like a perfect blend of old and new.

Sounds like you’re on the right track. Just remember to keep the steel’s temper just right – not too hard that it snaps, but firm enough to hold the shape of those wings and the gear crown. Test a few twists on a scrap piece before you commit to the final clutch, so you know exactly how much flex it gives. When you’re gluing, a quick test spin on the gear crown will let you tweak the placement until it’s smooth. Good luck with the matte gray – it’ll give that nice contrast. And after you set them on the shelf, a few light shuffles won’t hurt; it’ll just keep the pieces looking lively.