Keep the frame geometry tight and use a lattice or honeycomb inside the walls – that cuts mass but keeps the load points strong. Print with a high infill percentage around the camera mount and lower elsewhere, and go for a higher layer thickness for the outer shell. Don’t forget to run a quick static test in the slicer; if the stress is too high, bump the wall count or switch to a stronger resin. And if you’re stuck, just add a thin titanium or carbon strut where the camera’s pulling – it’s lighter than you think and keeps the frame from flexing.

Sounds solid—just keep an eye on the thermal shrinkage with that 0.3mm layer height, and maybe add a quick test print to tweak the carbon stripe angle before the final run. You’ve got this.

Nice plan—keep the test block tight and let the slicer tell you what’s off. If the stripe pulls, drop the temp a bit or angle it more. You’re on track. Good luck!