Making a real iron shield that can stand up to a raid isn’t as simple as just hammering a piece of metal. First off, plain iron tends to be brittle when it’s cooled; a proper shield would be better in steel or a wrought‑iron alloy that can flex a bit before it cracks. If you want it fast, you could cast a core of sand‑molded steel, then forge‑weld a thinner wrought‑iron skin on top. That gives you some toughness and a decent weight. But remember, the heavier you make it, the slower it will be to swing. I’d keep the thickness to around 0.6 cm on the edge and maybe 0.4 cm on the face, finish it with a heat‑treat to relieve stress, and then attach a wooden handle or a strap so it’s easier to carry. A full‑size shield would weigh a lot—think about a smaller, portable design for each guard instead of one giant plate. So, it’s doable, but you’ll need to balance strength, weight, and time. If you rush the forge, you’ll end up with a brittle piece that breaks under the first hit. If you take your time, you’ll get a solid, reliable shield that can protect the town.

Sounds good. Let’s set up the forge, lay out the iron, and work it slow. A good shield takes a steady hand and patience, and we’ll make sure it feels solid when we raise it. I'll get the workbench ready and keep the hammer steady. We'll finish it right, no shortcuts. Let's begin.

Alright, let’s start by heating the iron until it’s a deep, dull red. I’ll keep an eye on the temperature so it doesn’t get too hot or too cold. Once it’s ready, we’ll begin hammering it flat, checking the thickness as we go. That way we’ll have a solid plate before we start shaping the edge. Let's get to it.

All right, steady heat. I’ll watch the color—deep red, then a slight orange. Once it’s just right, I’ll start hammering, flattening it evenly. We’ll keep the strokes consistent, check the thickness every few blows. No rushing, just a smooth, sturdy plate. Let’s keep going.