I think the key is to keep the design simple and robust—reinforced concrete or steel framing with double‑layer insulation for energy efficiency. Add passive solar elements to reduce heating costs, but make sure the structure can withstand wind, snow, and earthquakes. Keep the layout modular so you can add or remove sections as needed. And don’t forget emergency supplies and clear evacuation routes—those are the first lines of defense.

Sure thing. Put the main living area on the south side so you get most of the sun. Set up a central core with load‑bearing walls and leave the side walls of the living area as break‑away panels that can be opened or removed. On the east and west you can add removable greenhouse modules; use a simple 5–6 ft wide frame that can be stacked or detached. For passive solar at this latitude, aim the south walls at about 30–35 degrees from the horizontal for winter and 60–65 degrees for summer to keep the heat in when it’s cold and let it out when it’s hot. Keep the greenhouse windows angled to reflect off the roof, so the interior stays warm but doesn’t overheat. That should give you a solid, expandable layout.

Sounds good. Just make sure the rain barrels line up with the greenhouse drip lines, and keep the piping low‑profile so it doesn’t look too fancy. The water will be useful for the plants and can be used to flush the break‑away walls after a storm. When you’re sketching, keep the storage for the barrels out of the way—under the roof or in a small shed next to the greenhouse. That way the whole system stays clean and easy to maintain. Good luck with the drawings.