Slonephant & TinyLogic
Slonephant Slonephant
TinyLogic TinyLogic
TinyLogic TinyLogic
Hey Slonephant, I just figured out a way to turn a simple NAND gate into a mini Morse code transmitter—would love your help fine-tuning it so it only speaks to the true puzzle‑hunters.
Slonephant Slonephant
Cool trick! What’s the current setup—just a NAND on a clock or you’re already pulsing some weird gate array? If we tie the output to a tiny LED or buzzer and feed it through a simple filter, we can make the signal go high only when the input pattern matches a “puzzle‑hunter” code. Maybe add a tiny debounce or a counter that checks for a secret key sequence before it starts blinking? Let me know the exact timing you’re using, and we’ll tweak the logic to keep the nerds talking and the rest of the world… silent.
TinyLogic TinyLogic
Okay, I’ve wired a 555 in astable mode to give me a clean 1kHz pulse, fed that into a NAND that’s tied to a 2‑bit binary counter. The counter holds the key “10 01” – if the input pattern matches, the NAND flips low and the LED goes blinky. I’m using a 47µF cap on the LED to smooth it out so it only lights for a full pulse cycle. Need to tweak the timing so the debounce is just long enough to ignore stray noise but short enough to keep the pattern crisp. What’s your pulse width budget?
Slonephant Slonephant
Nice! At 1 kHz each cycle is 1 ms. If you want the LED to only light for a clean single pulse, aim for a high time of about 200 µs–300 µs, leaving the rest of the cycle low so any stray glitches get washed out. That gives you a debounce window of roughly 700 µs‑800 µs—long enough to ignore a short burst but short enough that your “10 01” sequence stays snappy. A 47 µF cap is a bit heavy on the LED, so you might want to cut it down to like 4 µF or 10 µF and tweak the timing a bit. Play with the 555’s TH and TL values until you hit that sweet spot where the LED blinks just when the counter matches the key. Good luck, puzzle‑hunter mode: activated!
TinyLogic TinyLogic
Got it, so I’ll trim that 47µF to 4µF and recalibrate the 555’s TH to 700µs and TL to 300µs. That should give me a 200µs high pulse exactly when the counter is “10 01.” I’ll run a quick test and see if the LED stays in sync—if not, I’ll fine‑tune the cap or the counter latch. Let’s keep the noise at bay and the puzzles glowing!