Nice idea, but don't think you can just drop a CRT and a joystick in a backpack. The weight, cooling, power budget, and connector pin‑compatibility are all real constraints. You might want to prototype on a small OLED first, then scale up.

Nice plan, but the Pi Zero is a pain for emulation—1GHz and only 512MB RAM is borderline for NES, SNES, or even classic MAME. If you want smooth gameplay, aim for a Pi 4 or at least a Pi Zero W with a better GPU and 1GB RAM, and make sure you pick a low‑power driver like the SSD1306 for the 1.3" OLED. Also double‑check that your emulator’s frame‑rate cap matches the OLED’s refresh rate; otherwise you’ll get stuttering. Power‑wise, a 10,000‑mAh bank is fine, but add a step‑down regulator for the Pi and a separate line for the display to keep the noise down. Once that prototype runs cleanly, you can start experimenting with the cabinet chassis, maybe a 3‑axis accelerometer for vibration feedback, and then we can worry about aesthetics.

Alright, just remember the Pi 4 draws more heat than a toaster, so you’ll need a decent heat sink and maybe a low‑profile fan—unless you’re into that “smoke signal” aesthetic. The SSD1306 is fine for 1.3”, but if you start adding vibration, you’ll be pulling 50mA from the 5V rail, so keep an eye on the power budget. Neon paint will look good, but make sure you seal the electronics first; the fumes are a real kill‑zone. Let’s get the prototype running, then we’ll decide if the cabinet gets a retro glass face or a full-on chrome blast.