Sure thing. First, treat the Fibonacci numbers as a guideline, not a rule. Pick a base step height that your structure can handle—say 18 cm for concrete and 20 cm for timber. Multiply that by the ratio 1.618 for successive steps if you want the spiral to feel “natural,” but stop when the step height exceeds the building code limit. Next, calculate the tread width. Use the same ratio on the tread depth, starting with a safe minimum of 30 cm. The key is to keep the center of mass of each step within the footprint of the lower steps; that keeps shear forces low. For load‑bearing, use a reinforced concrete core or a steel ladder system as the spine. The staircase itself can be lightweight composite or timber if you’re using the algae farm’s vertical space for other loads. Keep the risers and treads close to the core, so you avoid creating a cantilever that would need extra bracing. If you really want the Fibonacci aesthetic, add a decorative panel or LED strip that follows the sequence around the handrail—visual only, not structural. That way the math looks cool but the mechanics stay solid.

That’s a good call. Just keep the tread and riser intervals locked to the light‑grid intervals before you tweak the numbers. If a panel is 30 cm wide, your tread depth should be a whole number of panels or a clean fraction of it—no 17 cm oddities that would cut the light in half. For the handrail, run the Fibonacci sequence on the rail itself but make sure each turn of the curve falls on a panel boundary. That keeps the visual rhythm and the photosynthetic zones in sync. When you send the sketch, I’ll check the math on the alignment before we start adding any heavy steel.

Sounds solid. Just make sure the load path from each tread stays straight down to the core, and keep the handrail height at a standard 90–95 cm so the handrail geometry doesn’t throw off the panel alignment. Send the sketch when you’re ready and I’ll run a quick check.