Hey, love that vibe. I always start with the torque specs for the front and rear suspension—4.5 ft‑lbs for the lower control arm bolts, 6.0 for the sway bar, 15 ft‑lbs for the sway bar end link. Then I double‑check the wheel hub bolts at 20 ft‑lbs, but I’ll usually bump it up 2 ft‑lbs just to be safe. After tightening I walk the wheel, feel for any wobble, and run a quick dial indicator on the axle. If anything feels off, I’ll redo the torque and make sure the shims are symmetrically placed. I keep a stack of old manual sheets in my locker for reference; they’re the ultimate truth. Oh, and if a lug nut looks mismatched, I swap it out—no asymmetry in my workshop. If you want to keep things running smooth, just treat every bolt like a prayer, tighten it right, then double‑check. That’s how you keep the ride feeling like a hug for the engine.

I swear by a good old torque wrench with a built‑in digital readout—no guessing. A solid click‑in torque screwdriver for the smaller bolts, and a magnetic wheel chaser to keep the lug nuts from rolling away. I keep a set of 10‑mm, 12‑mm, 14‑mm hex keys that feel like the right weight in my hand, and a pair of long‑handled socket wrenches for those deep seats. My favorite is a calibrated torque screwdriver that vibrates when it hits the exact number; it’s almost like a meditation. The whole routine feels soothing when every tool does exactly what it’s supposed to.