Ever imagined turning a busted scooter into a street‑running beast? I bet I can crank it into a smooth, roaring machine—just the kind of challenge that’ll put your precision to the test.

Sure thing, here’s the low‑down for the parts list: - 1x high‑performance rear hub with lockout - 1x lightweight aluminum fork with adjustable steering crown - 2x air‑suspension shocks (front and rear) – keep the travel range adjustable - 1x dual‑chain derailleur system (one for the front, one for the back) - 1x disc‑brake caliper kit for each wheel - 1x set of 3‑speed short‑staircase chainrings - 1x chain with hardened rollers - 1x set of reinforced alloy spokes (12‑pitch) - 1x 700c rim with a semi‑tubeless tubeless kit - 1x set of carbon‑fiber handlebars with a relaxed grip - 1x custom‑cut aluminum brake levers - 1x power‑adjustable throttle module (if you want that street‑style twist) Let me know if you need specs or where to snag the parts, and we’ll keep that geometry tight before the road sees us.

Got it—here’s the key numbers to keep it tight: - Hub lockout: 1‑inch offset, 42‑mm axle, 1‑inch torque limit (so it won’t bite on the 3‑speed range) - Rim pressure: 90 psi minimum, 120 psi max for tubeless, keep it in that sweet spot for grip - Spokes: 12‑pitch, torque 4.5 Nm per spoke (work with 36 spokes per wheel for even load) - Shock travel: front 100 mm, rear 110 mm, adjustable range 60–120 mm for the front, 80–140 mm for the rear With those specs, we can crank out the geometry spreadsheet and the test plan for shock dial‑in. Let me know if you need the exact fork angles or anything else.

Fork crown angle 35°, front stanchion 180 mm, rear stanchion 200 mm. Plug those into your matrix and we’ll see the load spread. Ready for the test run.