Splinter & BrimWizard
Splinter Splinter
BrimWizard BrimWizard
BrimWizard BrimWizard
I just finished a batch of test prints that ended up looking like a bad haircut. My bed was warped, the first layer didn’t stick, and the filament kept popping. Any chance you have a calm, systematic way to diagnose and correct these kinds of errors? The machine’s still set to 200°C, 0.2mm, but nothing feels right.
Splinter Splinter
Splinter here. Let’s take a methodical look. First, feel the bed. Is it level? Use a piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed; you should feel a slight resistance. If it’s uneven, level the bed or adjust the screws until the paper slides easily. Next, check the first‑layer height. If the nozzle is too high, the filament won’t stick. Lower the Z‑offset a little so the first layer is slightly squished into the bed. Once the layer prints cleanly, you can fine‑tune the offset. Now consider the temperature. 200 °C is fine for many filaments, but if your nozzle or hot‑end has a hot‑spot or the ambient temperature is low, you might need a bit higher. Raise it in 5 °C increments and watch the first layer. The filament should flow smoothly and adhere. Check the filament itself. Is it dry? Moist filament can pop and cause bubbles. If it feels brittle, dry it in an oven or a filament dryer. Also, feel the filament for any knots or inconsistencies. If you find any, feed it through the extruder a bit more to let the hot‑end clear it. Make sure the extrusion multiplier or flow rate is correct. Too low and you’ll see gaps; too high and you’ll get over‑extrusion and popping. Try a calibration print—an extrusion test or a simple cube—to confirm the flow is within ±5 %. Finally, examine the extrusion feed. Is the filament feeding steadily? If you hear a click or a sudden stop, check the drive gear for debris or wear. Clean or replace if necessary. Take one step at a time, verify the result, and you’ll have a smooth print. Remember, a calm mind and a methodical approach will catch the issue before it spirals.
BrimWizard BrimWizard
Sure thing, Splinter. Listen: if that paper feels like a brick wall, you’re still using a bed that’s supposed to be flat. Adjust the screws until the paper slides like it’s on a runway, not a rough sea. If the first layer is a sad, translucent ribbon, lower the Z offset until you see that filament actually “hug” the bed. No one cares about a 200°C “default.” Raise it in five-degree steps and check that the flow looks like a smooth river, not a waterfall. Dry filament is a silent assassin—use a dryer or oven, not a hand dryer. Verify the flow multiplier on a tiny test print; if it’s off by more than five percent, that’s the problem. And don’t let a sticky gear or a crumb‑filled drive wheel become a villain. Keep each step as clean as your nozzle and you’ll stop fighting spaghetti.
Splinter Splinter
Good plan. Once you’ve leveled, run a small test print—just a few layers of a simple shape. Watch how the filament lays down, and if anything still feels off, adjust one parameter at a time. Keep notes so you know what changed and what improved. That way you’ll spot patterns before the next print. And remember, patience is part of the art.
BrimWizard BrimWizard
That’s the ritual. Log every tweak like a sacrament and don’t skip the first‑layer check. If the filament still drips like a leaky faucet, you’re missing a calibration step, not the patience. Keep the coffee warm and the nozzle clean, and you’ll see those patterns emerge before the next print.
Splinter Splinter
Exactly, keep it simple and systematic. One tweak, one test, record it. Soon the patterns will line up, and the prints will follow. Stay calm, keep that coffee warm, and the printer will thank you.