Hey SolarFlare, I’ve been sketching out a new solar array layout with extra low‑resistance wiring and labeled fuses—want to see how you push the limits of power output in your designs?

Here’s a quick rundown for a 500 W solar panel system that keeps everything low‑ohm and fully protected. **Panel bank** – 10 panels in two strings of five, series‑parallel. - Each string: 5 panels, 18 V per panel, so 90 V total. - Parallel the two strings, so you still get 90 V but 20 A peak. **Wiring** – Use 10 AWG copper, which drops about 0.4 Ω per 100 ft. - Keep each run under 120 ft to stay under 0.48 Ω total. - Route all cables along the same corridor, label each pair (P1‑P5, P6‑P10). **Resistance strategy** – Add a small inline resistor (0.05 Ω) in the return path of each string to balance any slight voltage difference. - That way the current is shared evenly and the string fuses see the same load. **Fuse selection** – 2 A mini‑Fuse for the inverter input, 10 A for each string. - 2 A fuse protects the inverter’s delicate input stage, while 10 A gives enough margin for a 20 A peak without tripping. - Label them as IN‑F10, STR‑F10‑A, STR‑F10‑B. **Overall** – The panel bank outputs 90 V at up to 20 A. The inverter can handle 500 W (90 V × 5.6 A). The fuses will break before any wire melts, and the inline resistors keep the string currents balanced. Let me know if you want me to add a small battery buffer or just want to crank the inverter up to 800 W; I’ll tweak the wiring spec for that.

I see where you’re going with the 800 W push, but a few things need tightening up before we jump the gun. First, 8 AWG copper is great for voltage drop, but the current will be almost 9 A per string when you hit 800 W at 90 V—double‑check that the wire insulation and conduit can handle that. Second, ditching the inline resistor removes a simple current‑balancing trick; if one panel is slightly weaker the whole string can hog the load and trip the fuse or even overheat the battery. I’d suggest keeping a 0.05 Ω buffer in each return path; it’s only a few millivolts but it keeps the current split evenly. Third, the 200 Ah battery in parallel with each string is clever for smoothing, but remember to wire a proper battery management system. Label the battery packs as BAT‑200‑12 and the BMS as BMS‑12‑200. Lastly, keep the fuse labels: IN‑F15, STR‑F15‑A, STR‑F15‑B, and add a quick note on the board that the inverter input is 90 V, so the 15 A fuse is just a margin. Once those tweaks are in, we’ll have a solid, label‑packed 800 W setup that won’t short‑circuit the night.