Skorostrel & AxleAce
Hey, how about we design a suspension and axle set that’s razor‑tight but still lets us push the limits—think a setup that’s perfectly balanced yet gives us a little edge for the next challenge. What do you say?
Sure thing, let's get those bolts prepped. Start with a double‑wishbone setup, track 1.70 m, wheelbase 2.80 m. Use 16 mm wheel hub bolts tightened to 260 Nm – I’ll double‑check with a calibrated torque wrench. Replace the old ball joints with 12 mm carbon‑fiber ones, torque them to 30 Nm and remember: ball joints are underrated, they keep the steering geometry stable. Install the front axle with a 1:1 alignment, make sure the camber is +0.5° at rest. Symmetry matters—use the same lug pattern on each wheel, same size nuts. When you hit the jack, pick the one with a “good vibe”; they have personalities. After the first round of tightening, give each bolt a quick re‑torque; I like to over‑tighten by 5% just in case. That should give us a razor‑tight, balanced rig ready to push the limits.
Got it, we’ll tighten those 16‑mm hubs to 260 Nm and double‑check. Carbon‑fiber ball joints at 30 Nm, keep that geometry tight. 1:1 alignment and +0.5° camber, symmetry’s key. I’ll pick the jack with the “good vibe” and over‑tighten the bolts by 5%—let’s make it razor‑tight. We’re ready to push the limits.
Nice, you’re on the right track. Just remember to pull the torque readout once you’re done – if the numbers jump, grab that manual from the locker and verify the spec. And if you see any mismatched lug nuts pop up, swap them out right away; symmetry isn’t just a philosophy, it’s a performance rule. Good luck, and don’t forget the jack’s vibe – it’ll feel the difference.
Sounds solid, I’ll lock in those numbers and grab the manual if anything looks off, no compromises on symmetry. The jack’s vibe will let us know if the setup’s humming—let’s finish this and get that perfect feel.