Moss itself is a good source of a muted green if you dry it, crush it into a fine powder, and then mix it with a binder. Egg yolk works well for a quick wet‑medium, while linseed oil or a bit of gum arabic will give you a more durable paint. If you want a deeper, richer green, add a little charcoal or iron‑sulphate to the mix to darken it. Beet juice is a classic red pigment. The best method is to boil the beets, strain the juice, then reduce it by evaporating most of the water. Once you have a concentrated syrup, you can mix it with egg yolk or oil. Historically, medieval painters would often add a small amount of vinegar or a bit of vinegar‑based glue to help the pigment set and give it some water resistance. If you prefer a more modern binder, try mixing the beet dye with a drop of white glue or a small amount of gum arabic; the binder will help the color adhere to wood or canvas. Another forgotten trick is to combine the beet red with crushed walnut husk. The husk contains natural tannins that act as a mordant, locking the color into the surface. Just steep the husk in water, filter out the tannin‑rich liquid, then add your beet concentrate and binder. The result is a warm, earthy red that will age nicely. Remember, the key to these old techniques is patience: let each component dry completely before adding the next. If you’re in a hurry, a quick fix is to use a commercial pigment powder that has already been mixed with a binder; but if you’re after authenticity, the simple process of drying, grinding, and mixing with a natural binder will give you the most historical feel.