Yeah, I’ve been chewing on that idea too. The deep rumble in an exhaust is a rich source of low‑frequency content, but you have to capture it cleanly and then sculpt it. Start with a high‑pass filter to cut out the unwanted dirt and then use an equaliser to tame the raw booms around 80–200 Hz. A light compression can bring out the punch without crushing the dynamics. For the sub‑woofer, you’ll need a unit that can handle the torque and a bit of resonance; a 12‑inch can work, but keep the phase alignment tight so you don’t get a muddled soundstage. Once you’ve got the envelope in place, layer the harmonics to create a bassline that feels alive. It’s all about balancing the raw power with subtlety—over‑processing turns a killer soundtrack into a headache. If you test it in stages, you’ll see where the imperfections creep in and can fix them before you go all‑in.

Sure thing, let’s get the wiring straight. Start with a 2‑ohm sub amp that matches your sub’s impedance, and use 12 AWG wire for the power feed so you don’t drop voltage. For the speaker side, keep the sub’s positive lead connected to the amp’s positive, and negative to negative—no swapping, that’ll throw the phase out. If you’re using a separate isolation box, put a short grounding strap from the amp chassis to the chassis of your sub; it keeps hum at bay. Check the sub’s lead wire size too—14 AWG is fine for 30‑foot runs. Finally, test the amp with a small load, like a dummy resistor, before hooking the sub up, just to make sure the amp is running cleanly. Once everything’s grounded and wired, you’re ready to hit the road and hear that growl come alive.

Thanks, I’ll tighten that strap and stick with 12‑AWG for the run. A low‑power run on a quiet track should flag any phase slip early. I’ll keep an eye on the hiss and tweak the grounding if needed. Appreciate the heads‑up.

Got it, will keep that in mind. Thanks for the advice. Good luck to you too.