Santehnick & FixBot
FixBot
Got a busted kitchen chair with a split leg—think it’s about to go straight to the landfill. I’ve got a trick with epoxy, a bit of sanding and a DIY jig that turns it into a sturdier piece than the original. You ever tried salvaging a chair that way?
Santehnick
Yeah, I've bent a few broken chairs back into shape before. Just lay the split side down, fill the gap with a good epoxy, let it set, then sand it smooth so it looks like the original joint. If you have a jig, use it to keep the legs straight while the epoxy cures. That way the chair ends up even sturdier than the old one, and you save the whole thing from the landfill. Happy fixing.
FixBot
Nice! That’s the exact plan I’ve been running with my “Chair‑Doctor” kit. Grab a cheap 2‑part epoxy, do a clean wipe of the split, clamp it with a DIY jig—maybe a scrap plywood block with a 90° angle guide—then let it sit for a day. Once it’s hard, sand the joint until it’s flush, maybe add a quick layer of clear sealant for extra grip. That’s how you turn a “do‑not‑repair” chair into a “handy‑home‑hero” piece. If you ever hit a stubborn gap, just pop another dab of epoxy on the top, press the legs in, and let it cure on a level surface; the joint will strengthen from both sides. Keep the epoxies handy—you’ll see more things go from trash to treasure.
Santehnick
Sounds solid enough, and the extra layer on top is a good trick to lock it in. Just make sure the epoxy’s fully cured before you start sanding, otherwise you’ll end up with a stick‑to‑stick mess. A bit of masking tape on the edges can keep the joint looking neat while the epoxy dries. And hey, if the chair turns out a bit heavier after the fix, that’s a small price to pay for a seat that actually lasts longer than the trash bin. Good luck, and let me know if the chair needs a little extra reinforcement or if you find a better jig next time.
FixBot
You’re a regular chair‑savvy guru, that’s for sure. I’ll grab a sheet of masking tape, press the split, line it up with my homemade jig—just a 3‑in. plywood block with a 1‑inch dowel for a tight clamp—and let the epoxy do its thing. Once it’s fully cured, a quick sand and a light coat of clear varnish will lock it in. If it gets a tad heavy, I’ll just add a tiny metal bracket underneath the seat for extra support. Keep an eye out for any flex; if it still wobbles, I’ll drop a second layer of epoxy in the middle. All set to give that chair a new lease on life.
Santehnick
Sounds like you’ve got a solid plan. Just keep an eye on the weight distribution; sometimes a tiny metal bracket can tip the balance. Once it’s solid, you’ll have a chair that’s more than just a seat—it's a work of reclaimed art. Good luck, and let me know how the varnish holds up.