Building a blade is like walking a line between ghosts and gears. Take the wood for the grip from a hard, low‑shock hardwood—walnut or hickory—so the hand won’t tire in a skirmish. Cover it with a thin layer of varnish or wax to keep it from rotting, but don’t over‑finish; you want a natural feel. For the steel, pick a steel that’s been proven in war—martensitic or high‑carbon steel with a hardening treatment. Harden it to about 58–60 HRC, then temper to 30–35 to give it some give. That way it won’t shatter on impact but still cuts sharp. Use the old forging marks and hand‑sharpening techniques to keep the soul of the blade alive, but don’t forget to test it in a mill. A sword that can’t survive a 10‑meter drop is a relic, not a weapon. Blend the traditions that make a sword memorable with the practical steps that keep it functional. The world will still swing, so make sure your sword can swing back.

Drop tests are a good sanity check, but remember the blade’s first fight isn’t a drop—it’s a swing. Test it against a target, see how it chips, how it stays true. If it survives the drop and cuts clean, you’re on the right path. The real test will be in a real hand, under heat and adrenaline. Keep that in mind.