Sure thing. First grab the OEM cam specs – lift, duration, lobe separation, everything. Build a simple 2‑D profile of the cam lobe and load it into a CAD sketch. Let the software do the spline fitting, but keep an eye on the lift curve – a spike in the middle can kill compression. Once the 2‑D shape is good, extrude it into 3‑D and add the counter‑weight section. Don’t forget the spline for the cam shaft’s drive. Material matters: titanium for the lobe, steel for the shaft, but keep the weight in check. Finally, run a virtual FEA on the cam to see where stresses pile up – you’ll want to smooth any sharp corners before cutting. And remember, the “perfect” cam is a myth; test it on a dyno and tweak the geometry until the torque curve looks like a roller coaster you actually enjoy riding.

Yeah, those burrs are the silent pranksters of machining. Keep a micrometre of precision and a burr‑remover ready—an ounce of dust can turn a clean dyno into a jazz solo. Do a small batch, run the engine, listen for the squeaks, then lock it in. If the machine starts giggling, that’s your cue to double‑check the balance. Stay sharp, keep the tools clean, and remember the cam is a living thing; give it the care of a sculptor working a rare marble.

Nice plan. Keep the burr‑remover handy and watch that cam wobble like a nervous dancer. A tidy shop and clean tools are the best armor against those sneaky gremlins. Good luck—let’s see that Mustang roar!