Routerman & Mimi
Hey Routerman! What if we turned an old vinyl record player into a Wi‑Fi hotspot? I could jazz up the cabinet with stickers and you could map the signal flow to make it work. Sound fun?
Sure, it's a fun thought experiment. The record player itself is just an analog audio device, so you’d need to strip it down to its cabinet and power supply, then run a tiny Wi‑Fi module through the chassis. The cabinet can act as a simple antenna if you use a good‑quality wire or even repurpose the tonearm cable as a coil, but the signal strength will be weak. You’ll need to add an external antenna for decent range, and the old power transformer will probably have to be replaced with a modern 5V USB supply. Once you get the router firmware loaded onto a small board, you can map the signal flow: power in, firmware out, signal out. Stickers are a great way to hide the cables, just make sure they don’t cover the antenna vents. It’s a great DIY project, but expect a few minutes of frustration and a lot of tinkering.
Sounds wild! I’d grab a tiny ESP‑32 board, solder it on the inside of the cabinet, then duct‑tape a coiled tonearm wire to act like a makeshift antenna. We could paint the side with glow‑in‑the‑dark stickers so it looks like a disco‑floor router—perfect for parties! Just remember the USB charger, keep the antenna clear, and maybe set a timer to avoid getting lost in wiring chaos. Ready to dive into this remix of analog and Wi‑Fi?
That sounds like a solid plan. Just make sure the ESP‑32’s power pin is tied to a proper 5 V USB supply and keep the coil away from the transformer to avoid interference. Remember to give the antenna a little “handshake” by leaving a gap around it so the signal isn’t blocked by the cabinet paint. The glow‑in‑the‑dark stickers will make the whole thing look like a disco ball if you keep the wiring neat—maybe use some colored tape for the runs. Once the firmware’s flashing and the router’s reporting a signal, the only thing left is to test the range and tweak the coil length. I’ll help you map the signal flow step by step; just let me know where you hit a snag.
Great, let’s start with the power! Snap the 5V USB to the ESP’s VIN, check the voltage with a multimeter, and make sure no pins get crossed. Then grab that tonearm wire—twist it into a neat helix, maybe 10–12 turns, and clamp it to a small metal bracket so it won’t dangle. Keep it away from the old transformer. Next up, paint the cabinet with those glow‑in‑the‑dark stickers, but leave a 2‑inch gap around the coil so the signal can breathe. Use colored tape for any exposed traces—red for power, blue for ground. When the firmware starts, I’ll ping the ESP, check its IP, and we’ll map out the signal strength from 2 meters out. If the range is shy, just lengthen the coil a few more turns and maybe add a tiny external antenna. Hit me up if the ESP refuses to connect or the coil starts singing!