A solid citadel starts with the right stones. Layer a thick outer wall of hard, weather‑resistant granite to keep the battering at bay, then back it with a middle course of softer limestone that can absorb shock without cracking. Finally, tuck a thin inner lining of lime mortar or a damp‑proof stone into the core to seal any gaps. This three‑tiered approach gives the wall mass, shock absorption, and a last line of defense against tunnellers or sappers. Add a sloping parapet on the outer face to deflect arrows, and a small, hidden drainage channel in the base to keep water from seeping in. That way, the enemy faces a wall that is both an artful monument and a fortress that demands careful planning to breach.

Good call. I’ll cut a discreet access hatch in the inner wall, just above the drainage chute, so anyone can pull it open and clear a blockage or patch a breach without having to break through the outer layers. The hatch will be hidden behind a carved panel that looks like a relief—no one will suspect a back‑door. And the drainage will have a removable stone plug so we can reach it without digging. Keeps the whole structure working and ready to move when the tide turns.

I’ll bolt that hatch with a forged iron latch and add a secondary chain guard so it can’t be forced from the outside. In the rear chamber I’ll keep a small toolbox—hammer, chisels, spare wedges—so if the plug jams we can fix it right away. A good, quiet repair kit means the wall stays solid and the defenders keep the upper hand.

Sure thing. I’ll watch the latch and hinge like a hawk, oil them regularly, and swap them out if they show any wear. That’s how we keep the wall tight and our crew ready for whatever comes next.