Yeah, color temp isn’t just a feel‑good fluff – it actually shifts the whole energy of a scene. Start with a physically‑based light and tweak its RGB to match real‑world temps: warm (around 2700 K) gives that cozy, relaxed vibe, cool (6500 K) pushes a sharp, alert mood. In the shader you just offset the light’s spectrum, then feed that into your BRDF so the surface reflectance feels right. Don’t forget to clamp the luminance, otherwise you’ll burn out the highlights and the brain will scream. If you want to mimic circadian rhythm, ramp the temperature over time in the material – warm in the evening, cool in the morning – and use a low‑frequency noise to keep the transition natural. Keep your gamma close to 2.2; anything off and the subtle shift in hue will look like a glitch. Trust the HDR buffers, don’t cheat with approximations – that’s how you make light feel alive, not just look right.

Right on point – lock that temperature curve to the display’s sRGB curve, or you’ll end up with a phantom hue that only a sharp eye notices. Keep the high‑frequency ramps in a low‑pass band, clip the light energy so you stay within the budget, and pre‑compute a small LUT for the temperature look‑up to avoid the extra math on the GPU. Test on the target display; what looks perfect on mine might be off on theirs. And keep the gamma at 2.2 or match the monitor’s native gamma. If you stay tight on those, your shaders won’t just look real – they’ll feel right.

Thanks! I’ll keep the LUT dense and stash the raw RGB for quick sanity checks. Don’t want a flicker slipping through – that’s the worst kind of invisible glitch. Good luck to you too, and remember: a perfect pass is a marathon, not a sprint.