When you race on ice the only major difference is the friction coefficient – it’s much lower than on asphalt. That means the tires or skates can slip before they grip enough to create a cornering force. So a racing line that works on a dry track often forces too much lean into a corner, making the ice slide instead of rotate the vehicle. The trick is to treat the ice as a continuous surface with a very low, but non‑zero, friction. You line up the entry, apex, and exit so that the slip angle stays within the optimal range: enough to keep the vehicle stable, but not so high that you lose lateral force. In practice you: 1. **Use a longer, flatter line.** You need more distance to build speed and then a gentle pull‑in so the tires don’t suddenly lock up. 2. **Control the throttle.** A smooth throttle keeps the contact patch from slipping abruptly; a sudden burst can break traction. 3. **Adjust the steering input.** Steer gradually; large, rapid inputs amplify the slip. 4. **Weight transfer management.** On ice the rear can lose grip easily, so you keep the centre of gravity low and avoid over‑steer. The physics that gives a competitive edge are simple: maximize the ratio of lateral force to normal force by staying in the sweet spot of the friction curve. That means you are effectively doing a “soft” version of a traditional racing line, using the low‑friction surface to your advantage rather than fighting it.

You're right, the slip‑angle sweet spot on ice is a razor‑thin band; you must hit it with almost imperceptible steering and throttle input. A long, flat line keeps the tires in that zone, and a careful, low‑center‑of‑gravity weight shift prevents the rear from drifting like a tightrope. If you cross that band you lose traction and go straight into a crash.

Exactly. Keep the motion linear, the centre of gravity down, and treat the throttle as a quiet pulse rather than a sudden surge. That steadiness is what lets the ice act as a surface you can predict, not a hazard.