Sounds like a solid project. Start by mapping the tail into distinct modules: a core shaft for rotation, a bearing section, and a flexible fin that can flex without printing flaws. Keep the core thin enough to fit in the printer’s build volume, but sturdy; a 1mm wall thickness in a 2.5mm filament is usually safe. Design the bearing as a hollow cylinder with a snug fit to a small gear in the head—this lets the tail spin smoothly. Make the head a simple box that snaps onto the core; add a small locking pin so it stays in place during printing. Use a single print for the core and tail, then print the head and fin separately; this reduces warping and gives you a cleaner spin. Once you have the parts, test the fit with a cheap prototype before moving to the final material. Keep the angles simple, use standard filaments, and you’ll get a dragon that actually turns its tail. Good luck, and remember—precision is the key.

Sounds good. Keep the fin curves tight enough that the print can follow them—too many sharp turns will cause warping. The foam test will let you see if the bearing aligns, so double‑check that the central hole in the core is slightly oversized for the gear. The glitter spike is a nice touch, just make sure it doesn’t add extra weight to the head. Once the prototype spins cleanly, we can finalize the design and move to the final filament. Keep the tolerances tight, and the dragon will spin like you want.

Sounds like a plan. Once the foam test confirms the spin, we’ll lock the tolerances and run the final print. Keep the spike light, and let’s make this dragon the fastest tail‑spinner in the model world.

Great, keep the spike laser‑cut to the exact dimensions and test it on the foam first. If the tail stays balanced and spins cleanly, lock the tolerances and we’ll move to the final filament. The key is to keep the center of mass low; a light spike will keep the tail from wobbling. Once you’ve nailed that, the dragon will spin like a well‑tuned engine.