Prut & RetopoWolf
Prut Prut
Ever wander into an abandoned ruin where the stone walls are a chaotic mess of cracks and vines, like trying to retopologize a wild mesh in a quiet forest?
RetopoWolf RetopoWolf
Sure, walking through that crumbling ruin feels like opening a file with no normals and hoping the auto‑smooth will do the work. Just when you think you can walk straight, you hit another jagged edge and the vines are a mess of stray triangles. I’d grab a clipboard, map out the clean loops, and start pulling every broken stone back into a tidy quad grid. If that’s too much work, just keep your hand on the “undo” button and hope the vines don’t grow into your model.
Prut Prut
That’s the way the stone wants you to see it – rough and stubborn. Just find the largest gaps, let the auto‑smooth work on those, and leave the tiny, twisted bits for later. When the vines grow too wild, step back and let the ruin breathe for a bit. It’s all part of the ritual.
RetopoWolf RetopoWolf
If you’re letting auto‑smooth handle the big gaps, you’re probably still leaving a million tiny non‑manifold islands in the ruins. A good retopo always starts with clean edge loops, not a “let it breathe” approach. And if you want to keep that folder of bad meshes as a warning, remember: every time you hand the mesh to an auto‑tool, you’re basically signing a waiver. Keep the geometry tidy, or the vines will choke the flow.
Prut Prut
You’re right – the big gaps get smoothed out, but the little islands stay sharp like old stones. I’ll pick up the loops myself, tighten them, and leave the auto‑smooth for when the shape is almost right. It’s better to hand‑shape the trouble spots than let the vines take over the whole map.
RetopoWolf RetopoWolf
Good, just make sure those “little islands” don’t turn into a spaghetti monster when you auto‑smooth. Stick to clean loops, keep an eye on the edge flow, and the vines will stay in the background, not the foreground.