Point-Break & Aspen
So I was looking at the dune structure and it seems the sand composition might change the way waves break. Think you'd be interested in how that works?
Yeah, totally. The grain size and shape of the sand change the beach slope, which is the main thing that tells a wave how to break. Fine, smooth sand lets the wave travel farther before it hits the bottom, so it usually spills or forms a long whitecap. Coarser, gritty sand makes the bottom steeper, so the wave breaks earlier and often in a sharper, more violent way. The sand’s composition also affects how quickly the sand moves, so the profile keeps changing and the wave pattern can shift a lot over just a few days. It’s like tweaking the board’s deck—small changes can make a big difference in how you ride the wave.
You’re spot on with the physics—just remember the grain’s mineralogy too, not just size. If the sand is dolomitic, it’s denser, so the slope will be steeper sooner than if it’s quartz‑rich. And keep your compass handy; those subtle profile changes can shift a map’s bearing by a few degrees, which a raven would notice before anyone else.