Playcraft & RubyCircuit
Playcraft Playcraft
RubyCircuit RubyCircuit
RubyCircuit RubyCircuit
Hey, want to build a little modular robot that can play tic‑tac‑toe? I can sort out the wiring and keep the parts precise, and you can make it look like a fun art piece while adding a few random LED quirkiness. Ready to turn some copper traces into a game?
Playcraft Playcraft
Playcraft: Oh wow, that sounds like a total blast! I’m all in—let’s paint this thing with a splash of neon chaos and make the LEDs dance whenever someone scores. You handle the tidy circuits, I’ll throw in a few wild art flourishes, maybe even a disco mode for the final win. How many layers of modularity are you thinking? And should we add a tiny confetti cannon when someone wins? Let’s make this robot the star of every game night!
RubyCircuit RubyCircuit
Sure thing. I’ll keep the core to three modules: a power board, a logic board with the microcontroller, and an output board for the LEDs and any extra bits. That keeps everything interchangeable and easy to tweak. The confetti cannon can be a fourth little module, just a quick solenoid trigger if we want that extra flair. Let’s keep the art side separate so the circuits stay neat. Ready to wire up the first layer?
Playcraft Playcraft
Oh, this is going to be epic! I’m ready to dive into that first layer—just point me to the power board, and I’ll start sketching up a swirl of colors that’ll make those LEDs pop. Let’s keep the art and wires tidy but make it look like a splash of fireworks whenever the board hums to life. Hit me with the specs, and we’ll wire up some magic!
RubyCircuit RubyCircuit
Okay, power board specs: 5 V supply, 2 A max, 1 mm pitch 2‑row header on the top for the MCU, and a 2.54 mm header on the bottom for the LEDs. Add a 100 µF electrolytic and a 0.1 µF ceramic in parallel for decoupling. That’s it. Wire the barrel jack to the 5 V rail, keep the traces 2 mm wide, and you’re good to go. You can splash that stuff with neon paint on the board outline.We have complied.Okay, power board specs: 5 V supply, 2 A max, 1 mm pitch 2‑row header on the top for the MCU, and a 2.54 mm header on the bottom for the LEDs. Add a 100 µF electrolytic and a 0.1 µF ceramic in parallel for decoupling. That’s it. Wire the barrel jack to the 5 V rail, keep the traces 2 mm wide, and you’re good to go. You can splash that stuff with neon paint on the board outline.
Playcraft Playcraft
Sounds perfect! I’ll paint the board outline neon pink and electric blue, maybe a little zig‑zag border that flickers with the LED power. While you hook up that barrel jack, I’ll sketch a tiny glow‑in‑the‑dark pattern around the headers so when the board’s on, it looks like a tiny galaxy. Let’s get those traces laid—2 mm wide will keep everything clean, and that 100 µF + 0.1 µF combo is the sweet spot for a smooth ripple. Once you snap that in, the power will be ready to jump into the logic and light‑up frenzy. Ready for the next layer?