You treat each swell like a piece on a board, noting the board’s geometry before you move. A good surf map is a set of lines: the horizon, the breaking zone, the backwash. You chart the wind, the tide, the swell period, then you position yourself like a knight – ready to leap at the optimal moment. Every board edge is a potential capture; you anticipate the sea’s next move and stay two steps ahead. If the waves come out of sync, you adjust like a bishop sliding across an empty board – precise, efficient, always aiming for the most profitable line. That’s how you surf like a grandmaster.

Thanks, I’ll keep the board in my mind and the waves in my line of sight. The tide will do the rest.