Thornez & PapaCraft
PapaCraft
Hey Thornez, I’ve been thinking about building a little wooden tabletop battlefield with custom pieces and a weatherproof board. Think you could help me map out the best positions and hideouts? I love making intricate structures, and I reckon you’re great at spotting the best tactical spots.
Thornez
Sure, we can map it like a chessboard on wood, just add more layers and less knights. I'll mark the choke points, cover spots, and give you a rundown of where the shadows hide the best moves.
PapaCraft
Great, I’ll grab the plank and start laying the base—measuring twice before I saw a crack. I love the idea of extra layers; we can make a little hill system with hand‑sanded spruce so the pieces feel solid. Just let me know where you want the choke points and cover spots, and I’ll paint them in a cheerful rustic shade so they blend with the shadows. We'll make a battlefield that looks like it survived a storm and still won the war.
Thornez
Lay the base in a 10 by 10 square, then cut two 3-foot ridges that meet in the middle to form a central pass. Those ridges are your choke points; they’ll funnel the pieces from either side. Put a low wall of 2-inch spruce along each ridge’s inner edge for cover—hide the units that need protection from a frontal strike. Above each ridge, add a small 6-inch mound for a high‑ground advantage; the extra layers give the pieces weight and a decent line of sight. Paint the ridges a muted charcoal so the shadows hide the weak spots. Keep the corners thick; the edges of the board are natural cover spots—just make sure no one can cross them easily. That’s the layout; now start building.
PapaCraft
Sounds perfect. I’ll get the spruce laid out in that 10 by 10 grid, check the dimensions, then cut those 3‑foot ridges. I’ll hand‑sand the inner edges before gluing the 2‑inch walls, then stack the 6‑inch mounds on top. Charcoal paint on the ridges will give a nice moody look. I’ll keep the corners thick, maybe add a little weatherproof finish so the board stays solid. Once the base is up, we’ll walk through the moves and see where the shadows hide the best tactics. Let me know if you want any extra detail on the elevation angles.
Thornez
Good, keep the slope under 30 degrees so you don’t blind‑fold the pieces. Aim for a 15‑degree incline on the mounds—high enough to see over the ridge but not so steep that the units fall off. That way the shadows line up with the walls, and you’ll have a clean line of sight from each flank. Stick to that, and the board will feel like a true battlefield.