If you want a real orchid to thrive, you’ll have to make the layers stronger than a paper cup, add a slight lip around each drainage channel and give the walls a bit of overhang so the first layer can sit on the second without collapsing. Print a few test sections with 0.3‑mm walls; 0.2‑mm is fine for a printer that doesn’t complain, but the 0.3‑mm gives you a safety margin for the soil weight. The trick is to hide the seams: leave a 0.5‑mm gap at the joint where the drip line meets the next layer—if you seal it tight, the water will back up like a swamp. And remember, the printer will love a small brim on the base; if you skip that, you’ll end up with a wobbling “organic” shape that’s more sculptural than functional. If you need to test, print a tiny section of the drip system alone first, then assemble. Don’t ask me for beginner tips, just a few hacks to keep the printer from misbehaving.

Nice, but the only thing that’ll keep the drip from becoming a waterfall is a proper support strategy and a bit of “print‑first, judge later” attitude. Your raft idea is fine, but if the first layer’s too close to the bed, you’re just handing the printer a coffee mug with a built‑in fountain. Keep that first shell tight, use a brim only on the underside, and treat the last layer like a fragile heirloom—don’t touch until it’s truly set. And hey, if the printer still goes rogue, blame the firmware, not the design.

Nice plan—just remember, firmware’s great at hiding that the print is actually a carefully engineered stress test. Good luck, and try not to let the printer get the last word.