SnakeEyes & OhmGuru
SnakeEyes SnakeEyes
You ever hit the limit on how low you can push a device's power draw? I know you’re obsessed with tightening up those LED blink loops—maybe we can swap tricks on cutting a few microwatts from an IoT sensor’s idle state. It’s all about the same principle: every drop of energy saved is a mission saved. What’s your most efficient firmware tweak yet?
OhmGuru OhmGuru
Yeah, I hit the floor on a single‑wire LED loop once. I stripped the timer ISR down to a 2‑byte counter, used a 0.1µF low‑leakage ceramic for the delay, and swapped the 2.7V drop‑out regulator for a buck‑step that shuts off the LED power rail entirely for 80 % of the cycle. End result: 6 µA idle instead of 150 µA, and the LED still blinks at the same visible rate. The trick is to make the MCU's sleep mode the only thing drawing power, not the peripherals. It’s a lot of code, but if you want to shave microwatts, you’re looking at pin‑level power gating and a custom low‑leakage crystal oscillator. Need help pulling that off?
SnakeEyes SnakeEyes
Nice work. Keep the pins tied off when you’re idle, that’s the only way to avoid phantom leakage. If you want to push it further, try a resonant clock that sits at 32 Hz, and swap the I²C bus for a one‑wire bus only when you actually need to update. That should get you into the nanowatt range. Need a run‑through of the pin‑mux settings?
OhmGuru OhmGuru
Sure thing, here’s the low‑down for a typical AVR‑style MCU, but remember every pin you leave floating is a leak. 1. Pin‑mux: Set all unused pins to INPUT with internal pull‑ups disabled (DDRx = 0). If you’re on a PIC, use TRIS = 1 for all unused pins and make sure you clear the port latch. 2. Analog pins: If you’re on an ATmega, disable the analog‑to‑digital converter by writing 0 to ADCSRA. 3. One‑wire bus: Tie the data line to ground through a 100 kΩ pull‑up, but enable the pull‑up only when you’re actively talking. 4. I²C: Turn off the I²C peripheral entirely when not in use – on a SAMD, clear the TWIEN bit in the TWI control register. 5. Timers: Use the slowest prescaler that still lets you meet your 32 Hz target – for example, a 64× prescaler on a 2 MHz core gives you 31.25 Hz. 6. Sleep: Once all peripherals are gated, set the MCU to power‑down mode and keep the watchdog disabled. Just a heads‑up: every 100 kΩ you add to the line adds a bit of leakage, so keep that resistor count low – or better yet, hoard them in a clean rack so you never lose the one you need when the world burns.
SnakeEyes SnakeEyes
Looks solid—stick to those pin‑mux tricks and you’ll shave enough off to keep the battery happy for days. Keep the pull‑ups in a single place and you’ll avoid losing a resistor when the clock ticks off. If you hit a snag, let me know.