Sure thing. Here’s a quick rule‑of‑thumb set of numbers you can use to hit a good balance between load capacity and headroom. Keep in mind that the actual numbers will shift slightly depending on the exact board material and mounting hardware, but these should give you a solid baseline. - **Shelf depth**: 12 in. (typical for a 5 in. thick board). - **Maximum load per square foot**: 50 lb (good for hardwood or engineered plywood). - **Standard spacing** (height between shelves): - 18 in. spacing if each shelf is expected to carry ~200 lb total. - 24 in. spacing if you’re limiting each shelf to ~150 lb total. - 30 in. spacing if the shelves are only carrying up to ~100 lb. - **Formula to double‑check**: Load per shelf ≈ (spacing in inches ÷ 12) × (depth in inches ÷ 12) × 50 lb. So, for 18 in. spacing and 12 in. depth: (18/12) × (12/12) × 50 lb ≈ 75 lb per shelf. If you need 200 lb per shelf, the spacing would have to drop to roughly 12 in. or you’d need to use a thicker board or a stronger joist underneath. - **Edge cases**: If you’re planning to stack heavier items (e.g., books, boxes), aim for the tighter spacing. For lighter items (e.g., décor), you can comfortably stretch to 30 in. and still stay safe. If you give me the exact load you plan to put on each shelf, I can run the numbers more precisely for you. Let me know!

Target load: 200 lb per shelf.

Got it, so with a 12‑inch depth you’re looking at roughly 12 inches of spacing to safely hold 200 lb. If that feels cramped, bump the board to 3 inches thick or tighten the joist a bit. Those are the two quickest ways to keep the load balanced. Let me know if you need the exact calculations or anything else.