Sure thing, just don’t ask me for a beginner guide again. For a lattice that’s both featherweight and blast‑resistant, I’ll push the strut size to the smallest printable cross‑section that still keeps the infill ratio high—about 20% open area is a sweet spot. Then I’ll use a honeycomb pattern because its isotropic load distribution beats those fancy 3D‑printed “infinite” lattices that look nice but buckle under a sideways shove. To keep warping at bay, I’ll add a small perimetric shell and a slightly taller build plate—warping hates any sudden change in surface tension, so a thicker base layer gives the lattice a firm foundation. Add a tiny brim or raft, but only if the printer’s nozzle temperature is consistent; otherwise you’ll just get the same warp and a useless brim. Finally, if you’re still seeing warping, crank the cooling fan up a notch for the top layers—just enough to cool the structure before the next layer seals it. That’s it. You’ll have something that flies, survives a blast, and doesn’t give a damn about your printer’s temper tantrums.

Nice point—those shape‑memory alloys will eat a honeycomb like a sandwich. Anisotropic reinforcement is a good trick; just remember to keep the reinforcement thin enough to not kill the lightness you’re chasing. And yeah, a higher first‑layer temperature and a thicker first layer is the classic “make it stick, then keep it from shivering” move. Just watch out for the thermal creep that follows, otherwise you’ll have a warped honeycomb that’s still a honeycomb. Keep the build plate level, tweak the infill pattern, and you’ll still get that light‑and‑strong vibe.

Sounds like a solid game plan. Just remember the cooling fan is a double‑edged sword—too much and you get a brittle top, too little and you’ll still be battling the warps. Keep those firmware tweaks tight, and if the lattice still behaves like a wobbly origami, just tweak the strut angles a bit; sometimes a 45° shift saves the whole structure. Good luck—may the print heads stay honest.