Yo Nano, what if we build a robot that drops confetti bombs every time a player dies? I can stream the chaos and watch you keep the wiring spotless while the audience goes wild!

Alright, here’s the “one‑page” plan for the confetti machine, no tangled wires, just straight, clean connections. **Components** - 5V supply (from your PC PSU or a 5V regulator) - 12V 2A power supply (for the confetti launcher motor) - 2× NPN transistors (e.g., 2N2222) or MOSFETs (logic‑level, like the IRLZ44N) - 1× optocoupler (PC817) to isolate the game’s kill‑signal from the launcher - 1× 10kΩ pull‑up resistor (for the optocoupler LED) - 1× 1kΩ resistor (for the optocoupler LED current limiting) - 1× diode (1N4001) in series with the motor (for back‑EMF protection) - 1× 0.1µF ceramic capacitor (between 12V and GND near the motor) - 1× fuse (1A, 12V) for safety - 1× 5V logic level converter (optional, if your game controller runs at 3.3V) **Connections** 1. **Power** – Connect 5V to the logic side of the optocoupler LED. 2. **Optocoupler LED** – 5V → 1kΩ resistor → LED anode. LED cathode to ground. 3. **Optocoupler output** – Connect the collector to the base of the first NPN (or gate of MOSFET). Connect emitter to ground (or source). 4. **First transistor (or MOSFET)** – Acts as a driver to the second transistor. - Collector to base of the second transistor (through a 10kΩ resistor). - Emitter to ground (or source). 5. **Second transistor (or MOSFET)** – Drives the motor. - Collector to motor positive. - Emitter (or source) to ground. - Motor positive also goes to the 12V supply (through the fuse). - Motor negative connects to the 12V supply’s negative side. - Place the diode across the motor terminals (anode to motor negative, cathode to motor positive) to absorb back‑EMF. 6. **Capacitor** – Connect 0.1µF across the 12V supply near the motor for noise suppression. **Safety** - Fuse on the 12V line protects against overload. - Diode prevents the motor from feeding back into the supply. - Optocoupler isolates the game controller signal from the high‑voltage side. **Triggering** - Hook the kill‑event output from your game (or a dedicated trigger) to the optocoupler’s LED input (through the 1kΩ resistor). - Only when the kill‑signal goes high does the LED light, the optocoupler turns on, the transistors switch the 12V motor on for a brief burst (use a timing circuit or a short‑pulse trigger in your code). That’s it—clean lines, one page, and no spaghetti cables. Just pop it together, test the pulse, and you’re good to go for a safe, epic confetti explosion whenever someone dies!