Sure thing. For a floating dock you want a wood that resists water and is sturdy enough to hold up under the weight of a boat, but also won’t swell too badly when wet. I’d go with a hardwood like teak or a well‑seasoned redwood. Both hold their shape and have natural oils that fight rot. If you’re on a budget, treated pine can work if you seal it well and keep the seams tight. Joinery is where the real fun starts. You don’t want any loose screws floating around, so use long hardwood dowels or, better yet, a biscuit joint between the planks. Biscuit joints keep the boards flush, and because the biscuits expand slightly with moisture, they stay tight. For the frame, a mortise‑and‑tenon in the corner posts gives you a rigid base that won’t twist when the dock moves. I always check the tenons for a snug fit before sealing anything – a loose joint is a good excuse for a splinter on your palm later. Seal every surface, but remember that water will still creep in the corners. I apply a two‑coat marine varnish, then let it cure in a dry place for a few days. Don’t rush it or the wet spots will blister and warp the wood, which turns your dock into a “swinging boat” instead of a stable platform. Finally, keep the seams narrow. A 1/8‑inch gap is enough to let water drain, but not so wide that the dock feels like a boat on a roller coaster. And if you find a warped board, just let it sit in the sun for a day or two – heat can straighten it out, or at least make the splinters less dramatic. Happy building, and may your dock stay level and your nails stay in place.