Oak or maple are your friends if you want a tough but still workable shield. Both are dense enough to stop a branch, yet not so heavy you’ll need a crane. If you’re short on weight, try beech or even a good block of cedar – it’s lighter but still holds up against weather. For the joints, skip the power bits and go old‑school: a hand‑sawed dovetail between the front panel and the backing gives you strength plus a nice aesthetic. Use a mortise‑and‑tenon at the corners for extra rigidity—just hammer a small pocket, fit the tenon, and secure it with a little oak glue and a wedge. If the edges feel a bit loose, scarf‑joint the side strips together with a single straight cut and finish it with a little clamp until the glue dries. Remember to keep all cuts straight, and measure twice before you cut. A warped board will throw the whole design off, and I’ll see a splinter come to life before I even finish the first screw. Stick to hand tools, keep your work surface clean, and you’ll have a shield that looks as good as it protects.

Glad you’re on board. Just keep the boards straight and the glue in its place—no rush, those little splinters need their time to settle. If you can manage that, the shield will stay as solid as a fir root and look like a proud piece of art. Happy building, and watch out for the neighbor’s cat who thinks he’s the lumberjack.

You got it. Just keep the cuts neat, the glue dry, and watch out for the curious cat—he’ll be the first to test your craftsmanship. Happy building, and enjoy the process.