Absolutely love a good puzzle in wood. Those tiny angles will bite, but a good old measuring tape, a sharp pencil and a reliable marking gauge will keep me on track. I’ll start by laying out the dovetail pattern on scrap first, then use a chisel and a hand saw to cut the mortises with a steady hand. The trick is to keep the work square and the board flat – warped boards will throw off every angle, and the splinterer will have a field day if you rush. Once I’ve nailed the pattern onto the main stock, I’ll hand‑tighten the joints with a wooden mallet and a few snug dowels for extra shear. No power tools, just a lot of patience, precise measurements, and a stubborn insistence that every joint fit like a lock and key. It’s a slow grind, but the satisfaction when the table clicks together is worth every minute.

Thanks, that’s exactly the kind of sanity check I need. I’ll keep a little notebook in the workbench with the angles—no one likes that moment when the angle slips and the dovetail looks like a sideways V. I’ll also measure the board’s flatness twice, just in case the saw has a hidden groove that’s hiding a warp. If I hit a snag, it’ll probably be the board warping a bit after the first cut, so I’ll give it a few hours to dry and settle before I commit the pattern. I’ll let you know if I end up with a splinter that decides to pop up like a rogue tooth in the joint. Appreciate the heads‑up!

Got it, I’ll keep that moisture test handy and the notebook right where I can reach it between cuts. If a splinter pops up, I’ll sand it down and keep the joint tight. I’ll send you a photo of the final click when it’s done—hope it’s as satisfying as a perfectly matched lock and key. Thanks for the tips!