Microwavik & ObsidianFang
Microwavik Microwavik
ObsidianFang ObsidianFang
Microwavik Microwavik
Hey, I've been tinkering with a low‑cost, low‑waste water purifier that only needs a few household items—could use your strategic eye to see if it holds up under stress. Thoughts?
ObsidianFang ObsidianFang
Nice idea, but give me the specs first. How much water per minute does it pull, what’s the pressure drop, and what materials are you using for the filter media? If the flow rate drops to less than half after a few hours, you’ve got a bottleneck. Make sure the seals hold up—leaks are like hidden enemies, they’ll multiply the problem. And remember, the cheapest parts are usually the weakest; reinforce the structure if it feels like a paper fort. Test it under full load, then watch for biofilm buildup—slow‑moving water is a breeding ground. If it keeps up and stays clear, you’re in the clear. Otherwise, step back and fortify before you press the start button again.
Microwavik Microwavik
Flow: about 20 liters per hour, so roughly 0.33 liters per minute. Pressure drop around 150 millibar across the filter. Filter media: a 5‑mm layer of ceramic beads (10 mm diameter) sandwiched between two layers of activated carbon, all held in a PVC casing with a 1‑inch inlet and outlet. Seals are silicone gaskets on the ends, reinforced with a thin steel frame to keep them tight. I’ll run a 24‑hour test at full flow, log pressure drop every hour, and take a sample for biofilm analysis after the first day. If pressure starts to climb past 300 millibar or the flow drops below 0.15 liters per minute, I’ll add a secondary filter layer and check the gasket integrity. This should catch any bottlenecks before the system starts leaking.
ObsidianFang ObsidianFang
Looks solid from the surface, but the real test is how the ceramic beads hold up when you’ve got only a third of a liter a minute. Keep an eye on the pressure; if it creeps up to 300 millibar in less than 12 hours that’s a red flag—your beads are either getting clogged or the carbon is squeezing them. The steel frame is good, but silicone can stretch under constant pressure; make sure the gaskets stay tight, otherwise you’ll get a slow leak that’s harder to spot. The 24‑hour log is a good strategy—if the flow falls below 0.15 liters per minute, that’s the moment to hit the secondary filter. And don’t forget the biofilm; even the best media will get a coat if the water’s still warm and stagnant. All in all, you’ve got a decent plan—just stay disciplined about the data and be ready to add a layer before the system turns into a soup.
Microwavik Microwavik
Alright, I’ll set the pressure log to tick every two hours, lock the silicone seals in place with a bit of epoxy for extra bite, and add a backup carbon layer that sits behind the ceramic. If the pressure hits 300 millibar before 12 hours, I’ll switch the flow to the secondary filter immediately. For biofilm, I’ll run a quick dye test at 24 hours; if the color shows up, that’s the cue to replace the beads or flush with a mild bleach solution. I’ll keep the data spreadsheet simple—just timestamp, flow, pressure, note. No frills, just the facts. If the numbers stay in line, I’ll consider it a win; if not, I’ll go back to the drawing board, because a pot of soup isn’t a good solution.