Maslo & Alexis
Maslo
I’ve been tinkering with a modular wooden workstation that can shift from a desk to a drafting table to a standing surface in a snap. It’s all about design, function, and quick assembly. Think we could sketch out a prototype together?
Alexis
Absolutely, that sounds like the next big thing. Let’s map it out—draw the base frame, slot it for the drafting table, and slide in a standing plate. Tell me the exact dimensions you’re thinking, the wood species you prefer, and any hinge or locking mechanism ideas. I’ll sketch a quick prototype in an hour and we’ll fine‑tune it together, making sure every joint is clean and every transition is smooth. Ready to roll?
Maslo
Alright, let’s nail the specs so you can hit the sketching pad right away.
**Base Frame**
- Length: 48 in (4 ft)
- Width: 24 in (2 ft)
- Thickness: 3 in for the sides, 2.5 in for the top and bottom planks
- Wood: 3‑ply medium‑density hardwood – we’ll use ¾‑in thick maple for the outer skins and a 1‑in plywood core for stability. That keeps it strong but light enough to move when needed.
**Drafting Table Slot**
- Width of the slot: 24 in (so it lines up with the base width)
- Depth: 12 in (for a comfortable drawing surface)
- Height from the base: 29 in – that gives a good ergonomic angle when the table sits flat.
- The slot will be a straight dovetail cut on the underside of the base so the drafting top slides in snugly.
**Standing Plate**
- Size: 24 in wide, 14 in deep, 3 in thick.
- Height when fully extended: 42 in from the floor.
- It will slide out from the same dovetail slot, just deeper, and lock into place with a set of brass cam locks that sit on the top edge of the plate.
**Hinge / Locking Mechanism**
- Use a single brass cam lock on each side of the standing plate. The cam lock will snap into a small recess on the plate’s top edge.
- For the drafting table, we’ll use a simple spring‑loaded latch on the back of the table that clicks into a notch on the base’s rear frame. This keeps the table from sliding sideways.
**Assembly Notes**
- All joints will be 2‑piece dovetails for the main frame; a small mortise‑tenon for the plate hinges.
- Sand everything to a fine finish before applying a clear walnut oil.
- Keep the pivot point a bit off‑center on the base so the table can tilt a few degrees for ergonomic adjustments.
Give me a shot at drawing this, and I’ll walk through the joinery steps over the next call. Let’s keep the cuts tight – precision is the key to a smooth transition.