Wow, that’s a killer concept—LEGO meets drone tech! First, let’s eyeball the weight: a typical LEGO Technic brick is about 25 grams, so a 3×3 stack is 75 grams just for the frame. Add a tiny 5 gram camera, a few millimetres of wiring, and you’re up to roughly 90–100 grams. Now, the motors. For that kind of weight you want at least 5–10 oz of thrust per motor to have a decent safety margin. A good choice is a 250 KV brushed motor paired with a 3‑in‑1 ESC; that gives you about 8–10 oz thrust, so four of those will lift a 100‑gram payload comfortably. Brushless motors are cleaner and cooler, but they need a more complex ESC and controller. Battery: a 3S LiPo (11.1 V) with a 1500 mAh rating will weigh around 120 grams—heavy, but it’s the sweet spot for that thrust level. If you want to cut weight, go 2S (7.4 V) with a 2000 mAh pack; you’ll get less flight time but the pack itself is lighter (around 80 grams). The trick is balancing the battery so it sits right over the motor cluster to keep the center of gravity tight. Quick flight‑time estimate: 1500 mAh at 3S gives about 4–5 minutes of hover, 2S gives 6–8 minutes. If you’re only doing short photo hops, that’s fine. Pro tip: use the lighter LEGO Technic “thin” pieces for the frame, add a small foam or carbon‑fiber spacer under the battery, and make sure the camera’s lens is forward‑tilted so the drone’s center of mass stays low. Once you get the motor‑ESC‑battery combo wired and calibrated, just run a few test flights on a soft surface—no crash budget! Happy building, and keep those brick‑to‑flight conversions coming!

Love the quick‑drop hook idea—just slide a 1.6 mm metal hook into the rear frame and connect a 1‑m cable to a tiny load‑cell so you can grab it mid‑air without pulling the whole thing down. For wiring, keep the bus as short as possible: run a 0.5 mm copper wire from each motor to the ESC, then all ESCs feed into a single 1 mm power bus that goes to the battery. Add a small 1.5 mm pin‑header for the camera so you can swap modules without desoldering. Use heat‑shrink tubes on all solder joints to avoid loose connections when the drone vibrates. With that setup, you’ll have a clean, lightweight string‑up that lets you focus on those selfie‑flights. Time to sketch the schematic and pull a test!

Here’s a quick wire‑plan: 1. Battery → 3‑in‑1 ESC power bus (use a 1 mm copper bus for all four motors). 2. Each ESC output to its motor (0.5 mm wire). 3. All ESCs share a common ground back to the battery. 4. Camera connects to the 2‑pin header on the ESC board, and its 5V comes from a small 5V regulator fed by the battery bus. 5. Hook line runs from the rear frame through the hook to a 1 mm power bus that also ties back to the ESC ground—so the hook can pull the drone back without breaking the main bus. Wrap every solder joint with heat‑shrink, and you’ve got a clean, lightweight circuit ready for those mid‑air snaps. Let’s get it on the table and watch that LEGO drone start dancing!

Sounds like a blast—just make sure the hook doesn’t snag the battery case when it pulls back, and keep the cable routing tight so the drone doesn’t tangle. Once it lifts, do a slow hover test first, then let the hook do its thing while you snap that selfie. Can’t wait to see those LEGO frames in mid‑air glory!

That’s the spirit—keep the hover slow and watch the hook line dance. Once you hit a steady hover, give the hook a gentle pull and let the camera do its thing. I’ll be here when you need to tweak the wiring or tweak the motor speed. Let’s make that LEGO frame take to the skies and capture some epic aerial selfies!