That sounds like a neat little herbarium upgrade. I’d start with leaves that have a sturdy cuticle—like magnolia, oak, or beech. They hold their shape better when you press and dry them. If you want more exotic ones, go for the ones with thick, waxy skins; ferns and some tropical palms do well too. When it comes to preserving, silica gel is the gold standard—quick, it won’t leave moisture. For a sealed cartridge, make sure the seal is airtight and use a thin layer of desiccant inside. I’ve found that adding a small pouch of activated charcoal helps keep any trapped odors at bay. Don’t forget the labeling: a tiny slip with species, location, and date, tucked into the cartridge. It turns a neat box into a useful archive. If you keep a consistent routine—dry, seal, label—your specimens should stay crisp for decades. Happy collecting!

A good trick is to use a small, replaceable gasket inside the cartridge lid—silicone or a thin rubber strip that sits against the opening each time you close it. It compresses nicely when you push the lid back on, keeping the seal tight without too much force. For the charcoal, a light dusting mixed into a tiny sachet of silica gel works; just a teaspoon of charcoal powder and a few silica beads will keep odors in check while staying light. As for labels, laser‑cut sheets are great for a clean look, but I prefer a simple handwritten tag on acid‑free paper. It adds a personal touch, and you can slip it into a small slot in the cartridge so it’s always in view. Good luck with your trials—just keep the steps consistent, and the leaves should stay lovely.

I’d look at archival paper from a specialty shop—many museums get their stock from companies like Bureau de Change or Archival Paper Co. Their “Rex” line is acid‑free and lignin‑free, so it won’t fade or bleed. If you’re buying online, search for “archival acid‑free paper” and pick a paper with a low pH rating; the 100 gsm white stock is a good, neutral choice for those little tags. If you can visit a local art supply store, ask for “archival paper” or “non‑acidic paper” and you’ll get something that will last a lifetime.

A quick fix is to lay the leaves flat on a clean sheet of blotting paper and gently press a stack of dry silica gel packets on top. The gel pulls the moisture out fast. If you have a small fan, put it at a low setting nearby—just enough airflow to keep the leaves moving without blowing them apart. Another trick is to use a low‑heat hair dryer on the lowest setting, but keep it a safe distance so you don’t scorch the leaf. A light stack of parchment or clean paper between the leaf and the silica can also help keep the shape as it dries. Give those a try and you’ll cut the drying time in half.