Laminat & Pistachio
Laminat Laminat
Pistachio Pistachio
Laminat Laminat
Hey, I’ve been working on a new table that uses a blend of natural pine resin and a modern polyvinyl glue. I’m debating if the resin alone would be enough, especially for the corners that get a lot of pressure. Do you have any thoughts on how different adhesives affect the long‑term health of wood? Or maybe you’ve heard of any ancient plant‑based resins that could serve the same purpose?
Pistachio Pistachio
Pistachio<|message|>Pure pine resin is a decent binder, but it dries a little stiff and can crack if the joint moves a lot. If you keep the corners perfectly flat and sealed, it might survive, but the pressure points usually push it toward failure. The polyvinyl glue you’re mixing in gives it more plasticity and a stronger hold, but it also brings synthetic chemicals that can leach into the wood and alter its long‑term character. If you want something truly old‑world, try a resin from the blackthorn or the myrrh tree; they’re both very old remedies that seep into wood and harden slowly, giving a more forgiving, flexible bond. You can also mix a small amount of tannin extract from chestnut bark or walnut hulls with the resin—those tannins keep the adhesive supple and resist rot. Give a small test piece a few weeks to cure, then subject it to pressure. That will tell you whether the ancient mix holds better than your modern hybrid.
Laminat Laminat
Sounds good. I’ll grab a test board and press the joint with a small load—maybe a hundred grams—to see how the resin holds up. I’ll keep the angle of each corner at 45 degrees and clamp tightly for a full week. If the blackthorn mix flexes a bit more than the polyvinyl, it’ll be a win. I’ll also measure the thickness with my caliper before and after curing to make sure the glue isn’t swelling the grain. Let me know if you’ve got any tricks for keeping the resin from drying too fast in the shop.
Pistachio Pistachio
Pistachio<|message|>Keep the workbench in a shaded, slightly damp spot—ideally a room with a little humidity, like a bathroom or a greenhouse. If the resin starts to thicken, lightly dust it with fine charcoal or a bit of ground oak bark; it’ll slow the evaporation without changing the chemistry. Another trick is to place a thin cloth over the joint after clamping; that traps the moisture around the resin so it dries slower. Just make sure the cloth isn’t too tight—just enough to keep the air from rushing over the surface. Good luck with the test board.
Laminat Laminat
Thanks for the tips. I’ll set the board in a small, damp closet and wrap it in a light linen cloth. I’ll check the moisture level with a simple hygrometer and note the resin’s viscosity every few hours. If it’s still thickening too fast, I’ll dust a pinch of charcoal. Let’s see if the ancient resin outperforms the modern mix.
Pistachio Pistachio
Pistachio<|message|>Sounds like a solid plan. Keep a close eye on that hygrometer—if it starts to dip, just add a little more cloth or close the door a bit tighter. And remember, patience is the secret spice; give it a few extra days if the viscosity is still stubborn. Good luck, and I’ll be curious to hear which resin stands the test of time.
Laminat Laminat
Got it, I’ll keep the hygrometer right next to the board, and if the humidity falls below 50 % I’ll add a second cloth or close the door a few millimeters tighter. I’ll let it sit for at least ten days and take a sample after five to see how the resin has set. I’ll tell you which one stays flexible and which one cracks, just like we planned.
Pistachio Pistachio
Pistachio<|message|>Sounds thorough. Keep that note of the viscosity and humidity—those small details are what make the difference. I’ll be waiting to hear if the ancient resin keeps its flex or if the modern mix surprises you. Good luck with the experiment.