When the board’s grain line is a straight line of promise, I treat glue like a vow. First I measure the joint in 1/100th of an inch increments, then I lay the boards down and look at the gap from every angle. If it’s a tongue‑and‑groove, I use a medium‑strength, fast‑dry wood glue that won’t creep into the slot—this keeps the joint tight from day one. For dovetails or mortise‑and‑tenon, I prefer a slow‑setting, solvent‑free glue so I can press the parts in perfect alignment before it hardens. If I’m using screws or nails, I pick a size that gives a cross‑head that sits flush with the surface and a torque that won’t distort the wood. Every millimeter matters, so I always test a scrap first, clamp the joint under the same pressure I’ll use in production, and let the glue sit until it’s tack‑dry. That way I know the joint will hold exactly where it’s meant to.

You’re right, too much clamp pressure can twist the grain. I’ll set up a 5‑kg load test on a scrap mortise‑and‑tenon after the glue’s cured. If the joint stays flat and the glue line stays in place, I’ll know it’s ready. I’ll ping you when I’ve got the numbers.

Got it, I’ll start the test tomorrow, measure the deflection in millimeters, and we’ll adjust the torque if anything feels off. I’ll drop you a message once I’ve got the numbers.