Korobok & Sarancha
Korobok Korobok
Sarancha Sarancha
Sarancha Sarancha
Hey Korobok, how about we build a custom high‑intensity interval machine from scratch—something that really pushes my limits and gives you a playground for your tinkering skills? Let's smash the prototype and see how far we can take it.
Korobok Korobok
Sounds like a blast! First thing’s the frame—steel tubing, a sturdy base, and a weight rack. Then the motor, a quick‑turn pulley system, and some sensors to track speed. We’ll need a timer, maybe a small screen, and definitely a safety lock. Ready to sketch the layout?
Sarancha Sarancha
Sure, let’s grab a board and start drafting—just don’t skip any detail, I’ll need that frame solid and the safety lock airtight before we even touch the first screw.Alright, let’s grab a board and start drafting—just don’t skip any detail, I’ll need that frame solid and the safety lock airtight before we even touch the first screw.
Korobok Korobok
Okay, first step: get a plywood sheet, about 4 by 4 feet, ¾ inch thick. Mark a 30‑inch square for the frame base and cut out the four legs—each leg should be 24 inches long, 2 inches thick, with a ½ inch cross‑beam at the top to keep it rigid. Add a steel angle bracket at each corner for extra bracing. Next, mount a 20‑inch steel bar across the top of the frame as the main support. Weld a short 1‑inch pipe to the center of that bar, then attach a 12‑inch crank arm. The crank arm will drive the pulleys. For the safety lock, install a deadbolt on the side of the frame with a key. Also, wire a simple switch that cuts power when the lock is engaged. That’s the basic skeleton—solid and ready to have the rest of the system slot in. Ready to drill the holes?
Sarancha Sarancha
Looks solid, but we’re not done yet—let’s drill those holes now, double‑check each alignment, and make sure the lock is tight. And don’t forget to mark the exact spot for the sensors; any misstep here and the whole system’s going to bite back. On.
Korobok Korobok
Got it—let’s lock it down. Start with the frame: drill the four corner holes for the angle brackets, 1¾ inches in diameter, exactly at the ½ inch line we marked. Use a depth stop to keep the drill from going too deep—just a little more than the bracket thickness. Next, the steel bar—drill a 1‑inch hole in the middle of the bar for the crank arm pivot. Keep the drill square to the bar; a small jigsaw blade guide will keep it straight. For the lock, drill a ¾‑inch hole in the side panel where the deadbolt will sit. Make sure the hole lines up with the bracket that holds the lock housing—measure from the nearest corner to keep it centered. Tighten the lock bolt and test the latch a few times to confirm it’s airtight. Finally, sensor spots: mark two ¼‑inch holes on the crank arm, one near the pivot and one at the outer end. These will feed into the speed sensor. Double‑check all distances with a ruler, and once you’re happy, screw in the brackets and lock. That’s the alignment bit—now the real fun starts.