Sure thing, let’s treat that timing belt like a puzzle box. First, stop the engine and pull the battery disconnect—no power, no risk. Next, locate the belt tensioner; you’ll see it’s usually a spring‑loaded roller. Check for wear: if the roller is swollen or the spring feels weak, replace that component first. Then, remove the belt by loosening the tensioner, note the routing diagram (most cars have a sticker or a printed line on the engine). Carefully trace the belt’s path, looking for cracks, fraying, or stuck teeth on the pulleys. If the belt looks okay, it’s likely a pulley misalignment: tighten the idler pulleys until the belt runs snugly but not too tight—there should be a slight give. After re‑installing the belt, crank the engine by hand to make sure it turns freely and the cam and crank marks line up. Finally, reconnect the battery and start the engine; you should hear a smooth, consistent whir. If you hear any squealing, you’ve either missed a pulley or the belt is too loose—re‑check the tension. That’s the step‑by‑step solution—no fluff, just logic. Good luck!

Glad you’re on top of it—just remember to keep a little slack in the belt, not a rubber‑band stretch, and double‑check those cam‑crank marks before you tighten the tensioner. If any of the pulley holes feel misaligned, give them a quick re‑grip. That way, when the engine hums smooth, you’ll know every piece is in its right place. Good job!