For security cameras the goal is two‑fold: get enough light to read details, but keep the system hidden. I usually start with a narrow band of infrared LEDs. IR gives you night‑time visibility without the bright white glare that draws attention. If you need daylight performance, use low‑intensity, diffused white LEDs—place them behind a frosted diffuser so the light spreads evenly and doesn’t reveal the camera’s exact location. Avoid strong back‑lighting; it creates silhouettes and makes the camera’s position obvious. Use angled LEDs pointing just above the lens, and keep the light level just above the camera’s sensitivity threshold—enough to see faces, but not so much that a passer‑by notices a bright spot. For stealth, mount the camera so the light sources are hidden in the housing or behind a subtle grille. Keep the power source discreet, and program the camera to activate only when motion is detected. That way the lights stay off most of the time, making the system almost invisible while still providing clear footage when needed.

Yes, I do it. I keep the IR on for the core image, then run a faint white LED behind a diffuser to fill in shadows. The light is so low that it just softens the edges without standing out. A small reflector off‑angle can bounce a trickle of that white light onto the subject—great for a subtle highlight, and because it’s angled it doesn’t reveal the camera. Keeps the scene natural, the system hidden, and the footage readable.

Glad it’s working for you. Just remember to keep the IR power tight and test the white LED on a dummy frame first—any drift in brightness can throw off the whole balance. Once you lock it in, the footage will stay clear and the cameras will stay out of sight.